The 80s fashions of Cold War Soviet spies
In FX’s newest series The Americans premieres tonight) *(OP note: it does not, but you should catch up with the two episodes that have aired)*, two undercover KGB agents pose as a married couple living in suburban Virginia in 1981. Costume designer Jenny Gering talks t TIME about shopping vintage, drawing costume inspiration from Playboy and why early 1980s fashion is underrated.
What attracted you to the show? The fact that it was set in 1981. I knew most people would be expecting the high 80s look—bright neons, shiny materials—but the aesthetic of 1981 is a late 70s vibe: earth shoes and that kind of look. Because you have so many influences—from The New Romantics look from the U.K. to the conservative influence from the new [Reagan] administration—there’s a lot to play with.
What was the aesthetic of 1981? A warmer, more autumnal look. Corduroys and velvets and chenille and a lot of knits. The early 80s are so under appreciated! It was such a beautiful, tailored, sensual time in fashion because the fabrics were so rich and it was a much more accessible time than people think. We’re out of the big flairs, shoulder pads and all the stuff people think of the 80s. It was very much about fit.
It’s also important to remember the show is not set in the East Village—it’s suburban Virginia and Washington D.C. so you see a lot of fashion influence, but it’s trickled down.
Where did you look for inspiration? My crew and I have hit every vintage store from Brooklyn to Albany, N.Y.. We’ve gotten things, we’ve made things, we’ve copied things we love with fabrics we’re interested in. I’ve been conscientious to mainly use vintage, but we’ve had to take some liberties. When I first heard the job I went to my high school year book. I was 13 in 1981 so I just pored over them to make sure what I pictured was right on. From there, I went to looking at old catalogues, old magazines—you can’t imagine how helpfu Playboy as. Because ironically there were a lot of fashion spreads, and the ads themselves were so helpful.
Tell us about dressing Elizabeth (played by Keri Russell). Elizabeth is the classic hot mom. She has classic tastes, but she’s young and fun and hip. So she’s wearing beautiful high-wasted jeans tucked into high-heeled boots. She does a lot of blazers, sexy silk blouses paired with jeans. I was very much inspired by Charlotte Rampling and these cool, sexy women of the 70s.
Does the fact that they’re undercover agents add an extra layer to the way you dress them? I think if anything they’re trying to not call attention to themselves. They’re so indoctrinated into being American at this point that it’s second nature. Even though it’s a false identity, it’s a false character. So I don’t think they’re being extra conservative or American.
Here's an excuse to talk about this show. Who's watching it and what do you all think so far? Personally, I think it's great (but I live and breathe for this Cold War stuff) and I've been pleasantly surprised by Keri Russel.
Though in 1960 Keri's character has a russian accent then by 1962 when she meets her soon to be husband she speaks perfect english. You really have to ignore this because there is just no fucking way this is possible to do in real life. I know people who have lived in america for nearly 40 years and STILL have somewhat of a russian accent.
I know people who have lived in america for nearly 40 years and STILL have somewhat of a russian accent.
We're talking KGB officers though. Immigrants don't have the same incentive to lose their accents as KGB spies.
My parents have been here for 30+ years and my mom has the thickest accent still, my dad's is a lot less, but there's no way he'd ever be able to sound like me, no matter how hard he tried.
Edited at 2013-02-07 09:33 pm (UTC)
It could have been that he'd lost the accent already or it could have been something else (maybe he's not Russian?).
And, I don't know, his whole demeanor in that scene was odd.
Plus, I wonder why Elizabeth had to say "we were poor like you" before they ate the caviar. Maybe he wasn't actually poor. Maybe he wasn't the typical KGB cadet.
Edited at 2013-02-07 09:53 pm (UTC)
That scene threw me. I assumed it was the writers fucking up because he would have known she had never tasted such expensive caviar. no normal person in the ussr would have access to such a thing unless she knew someone very very important or it was stolen/bought on the black market. which I guess you could say was then a valid question but still. it was odd.
Mine sucks. I feel it never updates shows like everyone else's.
My friends that live like 5 minutes away are always up to speed with their ondemand episodes.
but it looks like the green is sold out
It was a fairly substantial drop - but apparently that's typical. It was just a bit more dramatic than normal I think.
I'm loving it too. The actors have seriously impressed me.