ONTD

6:04 pm - 02/20/2005

Jones Apparel group: Daria, Kate, Gisele




From WWD.com:

NEW YORK — On the surface, fashion shoots, with their cameras, sets and the preening of impracticably thin, superficially perfect models, are all about, well, surface.

Such was the case last month at the shoot for Gloria Vanderbilt’s fall consumer ad campaign, which features a trio of fashion’s “It’’ girls, who are so hot that they can get by with just their first names — Kate, Gisele and Daria.

Beneath the sleek exterior, though, the shoot was part of a larger drive by powerhouse vendors such as Jones Apparel Group to make “moderate” less synonymous with “boring” by improving styling and ramping up marketing.

“The main focus is to show our existing customer that we’re moving forward,” said Jack Gross, chief executive officer of Gloria Vanderbilt, a division of Jones.

The campaign is also an overture to customers in the 28- to 35-year-old range. That target is younger than the brand’s current customer, who has a median age of about 39.

In addition to attracting new customers, adding this marketing flash to the moderately priced Gloria Vanderbilt is a way of paying homage to the brand’s roots as a pioneer of designer denim in the Seventies. It takes a large, brand-oriented company to pay this kind of homage, though.

Jones declined to give specifics, but such a shoot with Kate Moss, Gisele Bündchen and Daria Werbowy — yes, they do have last names — can cost $300,000 once the models, photographers, stylists and location fees are paid.

The campaign, which will bow in September fashion magazines, is the brand’s first national ad push in recent years and is supported by an increased budget compared with a year earlier.

The expenditure, however, will help support the line in all its incarnations. Jones produces the brand’s jeans, tops, handbags and footwear, while outside licensees market swimwear, intimate apparel and watches.

“The moderate zone, you’re either big or you’re not in it,” Gross said. Gloria Vanderbilt’s annual wholesale volume is about $500 million.

The campaign will also soften the ground for the 2006 introduction of higher-priced Gloria Vanderbilt Couture jeans, retailing from $120 to $150-plus. “Sometimes where you start is where you finish,” Gross said.

For one day, the shoot overtook studios one and five at Pier 59 Studios, part of the Chelsea Piers complex in Manhattan, sandwiched between the Hudson River and the West Side Highway.

With high ceilings and white walls and sunlight from a southern exposure, studio five was used as a prep area where models and crew, when they weren’t occupied with preparing hair and makeup, lounged on a couple of black leather couches and picked at a buffet of clementines, fruit salad and other foods.

The models, dressed as casually as the crew members, stood out mostly for their slender frames and well-delineated facial features.

In some ways, the three “It’’ girls were prettier in that girl-next-door way, or maybe just less intimidating, before the stylists got to work — teasing and sculpting hair with hairspray and steaming curling irons.

Werbowy, in jeans and a T-shirt, had her makeup done as she sat, her long legs dangling from a folding table facing the windows. The result was dramatic, with deep emerald green eye makeup that was arresting in person, but intended for the camera.

“Welcome to Hollywood,” said Gross, surveying the scene.

At times, the models had a team of four perfecting their natural beauty: a manicurist, two hairstylists and one onlooker, ready like a surgeon’s assistant with just the right tool.

Running throughout the studio was Vida, Bündchen’s Yorkshire Terrier — a pink hair tie gathering the fur on her head into a ponytail.

When Moss arrived, protected from the wintry weather by a fur coat, she was greeted by Vida, who reared up on her hind legs and barked.

Studio one was the opposite of the prep area, all black and buzzing with energy while photographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and her husband, Vinoodh Matadin, worked with the camera, and a tailor and two seamstresses made last-minute alterations. A computer was hooked up to the digital camera to instantly proof shots.

Gathered in front of the hot pink neon swan (the brand’s well-known trademark), the three models struck a pose reminiscent of the one made famous by “Charlie’s Angels” in the Seventies.

A cadre of stylists made last-minute preparations and held light meters in front of the models’ faces and, once everyone cleared out of the way, one crew member waved smoke from a smoke machine toward the models with a piece of cardboard.

“It’s so sick,” said a member of the crew after looking at the shots on the computer. “It’s like the holy trinity.”

In fashion modeling, maybe. It takes more than just long legs to fill those jeans, though.

“It’s about the body language of the girls,” Van Lamsweerde said. “They all have the ability to project. They all know what it is to become someone [else] with hair and makeup. It’s ideal. I have to give very little direction and then they’ll take it.”

Jones’ senior vice president of marketing, Stacy Lastrina, who was ultimately running the show at the shoot, was aiming to freshen up the brand.

“My job is to keep the brand connected, relevant and evolved as brands are one of our most critical assets,” said Lastrina, who coordinates many of the firm’s branding efforts.

“Constant investment in a brand and maintaining its relevance is more cost effective than fixing a problem,” she said, espousing the penny of prevention is worth a pound of cure approach to branding. “Everyone needs a face-lift once in a while.”











Love Kate, Gisele, and even Daria. Hate how they look like Moulin Rouge rejects.

itsjustjane 20th-Feb-2005 11:45 pm (UTC)
My mom works for JAG! And like three other women in my family. Hmm..kinda cool.
chung_____chung 20th-Feb-2005 11:51 pm (UTC)
i cant stand daria and vogue's obsession with her. she isnt that great of a model.

im tired of gisele too, but i still like kate.


oh yeah, and that brand will never appeal to young people.
andwe_explode 21st-Feb-2005 12:05 am (UTC)
Some of their jeans are okay and ooooh I like this pair of spring capris...but uhm yeah pretty much.
misako 21st-Feb-2005 12:26 am (UTC)
I hate Gisele...she's not that good looking, and she really bothers me.

If Vogue would stop overusing Daria, I'd be happy. She's a pretty girl, but she's so overused and overly promoted right now...I wish they'd feature Gemma, Natasha P, others more...also, no more Natalia - she bothers me at times...

...if Daria's agency was smart (I think she's signed with IMG) they'd do what they did with Gemma - to limit her work so she wouldn't get over-exposed and tired.

Jones...never really going to appeal to young people...
chung_____chung 21st-Feb-2005 12:31 am (UTC)
i agree. i would like to see something different. im sure daria wouldnt bother me as much if i didnt see her every time i open a vogue.

im sure img loves what is happening to daria. all models go away eventually, and im sure they will just use her, make millions off her, and then let her go when she burns out. they are really raking it in with her.
andwe_explode 21st-Feb-2005 05:47 pm (UTC)
Jones Sportswear has an okay spring line! And the Jones Wear career line...

Wow, I'm such a JCPenney whore. Gotta be since I work there but eh. If you work enough you find something that's cute even in the ugliest brands...
discotraxx 20th-Feb-2005 11:54 pm (UTC)
What's up with the tacky hair?
like_this 21st-Feb-2005 12:05 am (UTC)
I love Moulin Rouge. I think they look more like Saturday Night Fever rejects. Moulin Rouge is based on the early 1900s, and those clothes don't show it. The 70's does.
jebe 21st-Feb-2005 01:24 am (UTC)
I do not like either Daria or Giselle. Pssh.
atiqah_erlina 21st-Feb-2005 10:31 am (UTC)
oh bummer! I'm a fan of all 3 of em', Kate, Gisele' and Daria! I don't think Vogue is overusing Daria though... She just, IS.
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